Archive for the ‘Green Ideas’ Category

Turn over a new leaf: composting beats burning

Monday, November 28th, 2011

Fall: It’s the time of year when trees put on their coats of many colors; apples fill the bins at roadside stands, carved pumpkins decorate porches, and thick, cough-inducing smoke fills the air.

It’s not hard to figure out which of these things doesn’t belong, but for some, burning leaves — despite regulations banning the practice in many areas — seems to be an Autumnal rite of passage. There are much better ways to dispose of your leaves, however; ways that don’t fill the neighborhood with smoke. Leaf burning is a health risk, especially to those with sensitive lungs, such as children and the elderly. It can induce asthma attacks, cause headaches and nausea, and is a frequent culprit in brush and structure fires. It also adds more pollution to the atmosphere and wastes some great garden nutrients. So quit burning (and encourage your neighbors to do the same) and start putting your leaves to good use.

If you have room, the easiest option is to rake them into a pile and let them decompose in an out-of-the-way part of your back yard. Chicken wire can be used to make a handy enclosure to keep them from blowing around. Pile them up inside, and let nature do the rest. It takes about two years to turn the leaves into an excellent soil amendment called “leaf mold.” Keeping the leaf pile moist and occasionally turning it over will help speed the process. Multiple piles will allow you to rotate your “crop” next fall. The end result can be used as mulch, as a peat moss replacement, and a number of other soil conditioners. (If you’d like to learn more, the folks at Rodale’s Organic Gardening magazine have a wealth of information on composting leaves.)

If that’s not an option, many municipalities offer curbside leaf pickup; the information is usually listed on their Web site or available via a quick phone call. Leaves (as well as grass clippings and other yard waste) can also be taken to a number of compost facilities in the greater Lehigh Valley area, including Lehigh County’s, the Saucon County Compost Center, a number of sites in Allentown, the Bethlehem Compost Center, and more. Check with your municipality to find one nearby. Oh, and don’t forget to ask around your neighborhood, too – it’s quite possible someone is looking for more materials to add to their compost pile.

Whatever you do, please, don’t burn ’em. Mother Nature — and your neighbors  — will thank you.

Reducing global warming, one meal at a time

Wednesday, November 9th, 2011

We want your table scraps!

A recent food-waste disposal study has found that using an in-sink garbage disposer can help reduce global warming. According to a write-up about the study, “a community of 30,000 households could avoid the equivalent of more than 2,000 tons of carbon dioxide emissions if most of its food scraps went through a disposer to a wastewater treatment facility instead of to a landfill. That is akin to eliminating 4.6 millions of miles of car traffic.”

That’s a lot of waste that’s not getting wasted!

Because the Lehigh County Authority accepts only domestic strength wastewater and wastewater from food manufacturers, the solid waste, or sludge, that’s left behind after treatment is of a high enough quality that it can be recycled as fertilizer. So using a garbage disposer to eliminate your food waste — instead of tossing it in the trash — means it’s getting a second life instead of lining a landfill. (For some of our customers, another option is composting.)

In the future, table scraps could also help power our wastewater treatment plant. We’re studying the benefits of converting our treatment plant so that it can produce its own electricity via biogas. When solid waste is treated, one of the byproducts is methane — the major component in natural gas. Using methane to power an electrical generation system may have some great financial and environmental benefits. We’ll keep you posted on the results of the study.

In the meantime, put that garbage disposer to work for the environment!

Check for a toilet leak on the cheap

Monday, October 24th, 2011

Did you know that a leaking toilet can waste up to 200 gallons a day? That’s an expensive problem! Fortunately, fixing it can cost as little as $8.

To find out if a toilet is flushing your money down the drain, remove the lid and add a few drops of food coloring — dark colors work best — to the tank. Wait about a half-hour (don’t flush!), and then check the bowl. If there’s food coloring in the bowl, there’s a leak.

In most cases, an easy-to-install toilet repair kit (available at hardware stores and many retailers that carry home improvement items) will fix the problem. Just make sure the kit is compatible with the toilet.

If your toilet is older, consider replacing it with a WaterSense model. According to the EPA, the switch could save a family of four more than 16,000 gallons per year.

Check out more water-saving tips right here.

Keeping it clean (and green)

Friday, August 19th, 2011

If you want to lead a more “green” lifestyle, one of the easiest places to start is the cabinet where you keep cleaning supplies.

Though it may seem counter-intuitive, many household cleaners contain highly toxic substances. Examples include formaldehyde, which can be found in furniture polish and is considered a carcinogen by the World Health Organization; diethylene glycol, a poison that causes kidney failure and is found in window cleaners; and perchloroethylene, a carcinogen and central nervous system depressant found in carpet and upholstery cleaners.

That’s the bad news. The good news is that there’s a host of alternatives available that are not only environmentally friendly, but also much easier on your wallet. Some of them — such as vinegar, baking soda, cornstarch and lemon juice — are probably already be in your pantry. And they were being used to effectively clean the house long before the advent of ready-made chemical products.

Let’s start with window cleaner. A mixture of vinegar and vegetable-based liquid soap does the trick well. The folks at care2.com suggest this recipe: combine 2 cups of water, 1/4 cup of white distilled vinegar, and up to 1/2 teaspoon of liquid soap or detergent in a spray bottle. The soap, ironically enough, is needed to cut through any residue left behind by previous chemical window cleaners. After using this mixture a few times, you should be able to switch to straight five percent vinegar.

To polish furniture, mix a cup of mineral oil with three drops of lemon (or orange) extract (not juice). To remove excess polish, sprinkle with cornstarch and buff with a soft rag.  And while we’re on the subject of cornstarch, it can also be used to clean carpets and rugs: sprinkle it, then let it sit for 30 minutes before vacuuming. It will draw out odors and dirt like a charm.

For stains, white vinegar or lemon juice work to get out many substances (Wholeliving.com has a comprehensive list of natural stain removers for different applications).

Ready to clean the bathroom? Make a paste of baking soda — three parts baking soda,  one part water (or liquid soap) — to scrub toilets, tubs and sinks. Spraying them down with an undiluted solution of five percent white vinegar (which is how it’s usually sold) will significantly reduce the amount of bacteria, mold and germs. Although it’s useful as an antimicrobial agent — tests requested by CBS’ 48 Hours have found it to be 99.9 percent effective against bacteria — keep in mind that it’s not recognized by the EPA as a disinfectant.

Vinegar can also be used as a general cleaner around the house; it’s a good  for countertops, tables, and other surfaces.  Never use it on marble, however, and make sure to dilute it before using it on grout, as it can eat away at the sealer.

Baking soda is another essential ‘green’ house cleaner. A small bowl of it will reduce odors in the pantry, refrigerator and freezer, and it can be used to deodorize trash cans. A mix of baking soda and water will also remove odors from food containers if it’s allowed to soak overnight. Much like cornstarch, it can also be used to get your carpets smelling fresher.

Just remember to properly dispose of any chemical cleaners you won’t be using anymore.  Never flush them down the drain, where they’ll end up polluting the water.

To find out more about chemicals in the household, check out a page from the National Institutes of Health. For more about green cleaning, visit this page from the EPA. 

Do you have a green cleaning hint you want to share? Leave a comment for us below!

Garden overflowing? Freeze that food!

Thursday, August 11th, 2011

Harvest time is, arguably, the best part of growing your own fruits and vegetables. You’ve used compost to enrich the soil; kept weeds down by mulching, and used your rain barrels to irrigate the plants. Now it’s time reap what you’ve sown. But when everything starts turning ripe around the same time, a trip to the garden could seem like a scene from ‘Attack of the Killer Tomatoes.’

Have no fear. Taming that plethora of produce isn’t as tough as it looks.

For years, canning has been the go-to solution for home gardeners. Your mother probably did it, and your grandmother, and her grandmother, too. The upside of canning is that it provides a reliable, long-term solution to the problem of preserving your harvest. The downside is … well, there are several downsides, actually. It’s messy, it’s time consuming, and the process compounds the dog days of summer by adding a lot of heat and humidity to your kitchen.

That’s not to say canning should be taken off the table. It’s a tried-and-true method of storing food, and although it’s labor-intensive, the payoffs are well worth the time. If you want to learn more, the USDA has collected some great information here. But if time’s of the essence, keep your cool by freezing instead.

Freezing is one of the simplest ways to store food. Preparation is quick and easy, and there’s no need for specialized equipment. Pick up some freezer bags, sugar, salt and, if you’re concerned about fruit discoloration, ascorbic acid, and you’re ready to go. Most fruits and vegetables can be frozen in just a few minutes’ time. And when it’s the middle of winter and you want some of those peppers that tasted so good this summer, you need go no further than your freezer.

Here are some quick recipes from the Penn State Cooperative Extension to get started (note that their site suggests never freezing more than 2 pounds of food per cubic foot of freezer capacity per day):

 Tomatoes

Select firm, ripe tomatoes with deep-red color. Wash and dip in boiling water for 30 seconds to remove skins. Core and peel. Freeze whole or in pieces. Pack into containers, leaving 1-inch head­space. Seal and freeze. Use only for cooking or seasoning since tomatoes will not be solid when thawed. Note: Cooking or stewing tomatoes provides better texture and flavor.

Strawberries

Homegrown varieties are best for making jams and freezing

• To make a syrup pack: Dissolve 3 cups of sugar in 4 cups of water. Add 1 cup of this syrup per quart of prepared fruit.

• To make a dry sugar pack: Mix 2⁄3 cup of dry sugar per quart of prepared fruit.

• To make a dry pack: Omit sugar.

To package: Fill pint- or quart-size freezer bags to 3–4 inches from top, squeeze out air, seal, label, and freeze. Before freezing, bags may be inserted into reusable, rigid freezer containers for added protection against punctures and leakage. If using rigid containers, allow 1⁄2-inch headspace for dry pack and 1-inch headspace for syrup pack berries in quarts.

Prepared berries can also be individually quick frozen (IQF) first on a tray and then packed into containers as soon as they are frozen. IQF berries may be used partially thawed as a snack.

 Peppers

Bell or Sweet Peppers preparation: Select crisp, tender, green or bright-red pods. Wash, cut out stems, cut in half, and remove seeds. If desired, cut into 1⁄2-inch strips or rings.

For longest shelf-life, water-blanch halves for 3 minutes and strips or rings for 2 minutes. Cool promptly, drain and package, leaving 1⁄2-inch headspace. Seal and freeze. For crisper texture, package raw, leaving no headspace. Seal and freeze.

 Hot Peppers preparation: Wash and stem peppers. Package leaving no headspace. Seal and freeze.

Do you have a favorite way to preserve food? We’d love to see your recipes. Please share them in the comments section below, and we’ll post them for our readers!

 

 

 

Lawn brown? Don’t let it get you down

Tuesday, August 2nd, 2011

With summer heat making even your thermometer break a sweat, many homeowners are taking to watering their lawns more frequently.

The trouble is, that’s not always the best thing for it.

For starters, frequent watering encourages grass to develop shallow roots – not the deep-reaching roots that help to create a healthy lawn capable of surviving drought, high heat and lots of activity. Another problem is that too much water will keep the roots wet, making your lawn more susceptible to disease and insect damage. And overwatering also leads to increased runoff, which can carry away soil, fertilizer, chemicals and pet waste, polluting the water supply.

So what’s a grass-lover to do?

A brown lawn doesn't mean it's dead, just dormant.

In most cases, you can simply let your lawn go dormant.  It will turn brown, but that doesn’t mean it’s given up the ghost. It just means the grass is preserving itself by storing its energy in its roots and temporarily giving up on the blades — a perfect tactic during hot, dry weather. An established lawn will be just fine if it doesn’t get water for several weeks (although newly seeded areas have very different needs). When cooler weather rolls around, new blades will shoot up.

It’s important to remember that, with the exception of rain, you shouldn’t water during this dormant period, as that will stress the lawn by encouraging it to ‘wake up’ too soon – sort of like having your alarm clock go off several hours early.

If dormancy isn’t an option, there are a few ways to ensure a lawn isn’t being overwatered. The rule of thumb for a healthy, established lawn is to provide about 1 inch of water each week, applied in one session. That number varies based on the weather and the type of soil — heavy, packed soils require less water; sandy, arid soils need more.

Quick tip: Place an empty 12 oz tuna or cat food can under a sprinkler.  When it fills up, that’s about an inch, and the lawn’s had enough.

Common sense is key: If rain’s in the forecast, hold off on watering until you see if the weather report holds true, and then use a rain gauge to figure out how much has fallen. If it’s under an inch, do the math to figure out how much more is needed. And always water in the morning to reduce evaporation and give the lawn a helping hand through the heat of the day.  Watering in the afternoon wastes much of the H2O through evaporation, and watering at night encourages disease.

Finally, give the lawn – and your mower – a break. Cut the grass no lower than 2”, and avoid frequent mowings.  You’ll save energy, reduce wear and tear on the machine, and help the lawn to conserve its water supply.

Looking for more information on keeping your lawn healthy? Take a look at a few tips from the USDA, and be sure to read our earlier blog on water conservation.

Source Water Protection is everyone’s job

Tuesday, July 19th, 2011

On Thursday, June 23, Lehigh County Authority and the City of Allentown hosted a joint presentation to explain our respective
plans to protect our drinking water supplies from contamination. The presentation summed up an exhaustive study of where our water comes from and how it can be affected by any number of factors, including runoff from development and residential areas; industrial and agricultural byproducts such as chemicals or fertilizers; and runoff from roads.

The study area included the City of Allentown, the townships of Weisenberg, Lowhill, Upper Macungie, Lower Macungie, Salisbury, and South Whitehall, and the boroughs of Alburtis and Macungie in Lehigh County, and Longswamp Township in Berks County.

Utilizing results from the study, LCA and the City of Allentown are developing a plan to protect our sources of drinking water. This has numerous benefits, not the least of which are the protection of public health, promotion of sound land-use planning, and preservation of the environment. Some of the benefits are also financial – for example, the reduced cost of water treatment. A recent EPA study estimates that, on average, every $1 spent on source protection saves $27 on water treatment.

The plan calls for dividing the area into three zones. The most protective zone, Zone I, is a circle around each well with a radius ranging from 100 to 400 feet (DEP, 2005). The second most protective zone, Zone II, represents the 10-year time of travel – the area from which groundwater has a high probability of reaching the well in fewer than ten years. The Zone III protection area is much more extensive, as it encompasses nearly 50,000 acres and includes multiple municipalities in Lehigh and Berks counties.

Some of the steps Allentown has taken as part of the plan’s implementation include:

  • A street sweeping and litter pick-up campaign.
  • The removal of more than 9,000 tons of debris and leaves from city streets.
  • The removal of more than 3,000 cubic feet of debris from storm water inlets and 174 cubic yards of debris and sediment from safety grates and surrounding areas.
  • Implementation of S.W.E.E.P. (Solid Waste Education and Enforcement Program). So far, more than 7,000 violation tickets have been issued to enforce the city’s litter and trash ordinances.
  • The completion of a buffer zone project near Cedar Beach Park.

Here at LCA, we’ve been busy, too. Here are just a few of our related projects:

  • An ongoing leadership role in coordinating HydroMania events for the Lehigh Valley.
  • Participating in Emmaus Watershed Day.
  • Coordinating and sponsoring a household hazardous waste drop-off program.
  • Initiating a rain barrel program.
  • Offering “green ideas” on this blog and our Facebook page.
  • Educating homeowners and businesses about their important role in source water protection.

It’s important that all of us understand the impact we have on the water we drink. Please take some time to learn more about our work to keep our water supplies clean, and what you can do to help:

View the June 23 presentation

Review the detailed report summary and introduction

Contact Us for more info or to request an appointment to review the full report (too large to post online!)

Leave a comment below with your questions, comments or discussio-starters!

Water conservation makes good cents

Monday, July 11th, 2011

Wasting water is like flushing money down the drain. So if you’re looking for ways to save some cash, one of the simplest solutions is to save some water.

Don't let a leaky faucet drain your bank account.

Start by checking faucets and toilets for leaks. Those little drips coming from your tap can, according to Earth Easy, waste 20 gallons of water daily – that’s 140 gallons of water a week. And the Environmental Protection Agency says a leaking toilet is even worse, wasting up to 200 gallons in a single day!

While you’re checking for leaks, consider replacing older faucets, showerheads and toilets with a WaterSense model. According to the EPA, the switch could save a family of four more than 16,000 gallons per year.

Trimming just a few minutes from your shower can also be a big help, and turning off the tap during the time it takes to brush your teeth, lather up your hands, shave, or wash your hair will save many gallons in the long run.

Now take a look at your washing machine and dishwasher. You should run your dishwasher only if it’s full, and you should use the shortest cycle that’s feasible. Doing a partial load wastes water and electricity, as does using a heavier wash setting than is necessary.

The same rules apply for the washing machine. Make sure to use a setting that’s appropriate for the load of laundry at hand, and try to run the machine only when you have a full load.

If you have older models, consider upgrading to newer, more efficient machines. A high-efficiency, front-loading washing machine alone can use up to 50 percent less water and energy versus a top-loading model.

If you’re washing dishes by hand, use two wash buckets: one to wash, and one to rinse. This uses much less water than running the tap for each dish, and you can use the leftover water to give your outdoor plants a drink.

Each year, poorly adjusted sprinkler systems waste billions of gallons of water nationwide.

Speaking of the outdoors, let’s talk about sprinklers. Many farmers, businesses and individuals employ sprinkler systems to irrigate crops, gardens and lawns, but improper use wastes billions of gallons of water each year nationwide (this goes for other irrigation methods as well). Turning them on during the afternoon squanders a lot of H2O through evaporation. Using them at night or early in the morning makes more sense, but even then, a great deal of water is lost as runoff. It’s also often pointless to use them every day, as there may be sufficient water for the plants just below the surface. (A good rule of thumb for watering plants is to check the soil 2 inches down. If it feels moist, the roots have access to all the liquid they need.)

There are ways to tame your sprinklers, of course. Sprinkler heads should be aimed for maximum effect — spraying sidewalks, macadam or the side of your house isn’t going to help your plants. Timers can be programmed for more infrequent use, to run the sprinklers for shorter intervals, and to run them only at night or early in the morning. Rain sensors, which will keep the sprinklers off when they’re not needed, can be installed. Another nifty option, detailed in a recent Scientific American article, is a “smart” irrigation system that controls watering cycles based on satellite data and weather forecasts. According to the piece, a school district that used the system managed to slash its water consumption by a whopping 39% and its utility bills by $108,000.

Replacing turf with shrubs or groundcovers that have deeper roots than water-needy grass is also helpful. Make sure to use mulch around your plants; this will help retain moisture and eliminate the need for frequent watering. And consider installing rain barrels to catch runoff from your roof that can be used later on when your plants need a drink.

Finally, don’t forget to check your outdoor spigots, irrigation systems, pools and hot tubs for costly leaks. Install covers on hot tubs and, when feasible, pools, to reduce water loss via evaporation. And keep an eye on your water meter, because spikes in usage can signal an unseen leak.

Do you have tips for water conservation? We’d love to hear them. Post them in our comments section, and we’ll share them with our readers.

 

Next stop: The buffer zone

Tuesday, June 28th, 2011

When it comes to protecting our rivers and streams, there’s one option that’s easy to accomplish yet can work wonders: a buffer zone.

What’s a buffer zone? It’s an area that catches, slows and filters water runoff before it enters a stream or river. It can remove chemicals, excess nutrients such as phosphorus and nitrogen (which come from lawn and crop fertilization), and sediment that’s been washed away in a heavy rain.

A buffer zone (or riparian buffer) is an important part of keeping our waterways clean. When excess nutrients enter a body of water, they cause algal blooms that use up oxygen that fish and other aquatic organisms need to live. Sediment — such as topsoil, sand or clay — clogs streams, harms aquatic life, and often carries trapped pollutants.

Excess nutrients cause toxic algal blooms in waterways.

Fortunately, a buffer zone is simple to create and maintain.

For starters, you can reduce or eliminate fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides used on your lawn. Is a lush, emerald green carpet of grass really more important than clean water and a healthy ecosystem? Fertilizer runoff is a primary pollutant found in waterways all over the country, but with just a few small changes to our lifestyle, we can have a big impact on the effect it’s having on our sources of drinking water.

Capturing or diverting rooftop storm water runoff is another easy step. A rain barrel – available free from the Authority – can be used to capture storm water for reuse later when your garden or flowers need a drink. Or you can direct rainwater into a rain garden, which will capture and filter the runoff (for a rain garden fact sheet, click here) by utilizing rocks, blended soils and water-loving native plants. Either solution keeps runoff from eroding your yard and washing dirt and debris straight into a stream.

If a stream or river runs along your property, create a no-mow zone of 5 feet or more (the wider the better). This allows better filtration of runoff before it reaches the stream, while also maintaining an area for wildlife. It also saves you money on gas and stabilizes the stream bank by reducing erosion. You can even go a step further by planting native wildflowers and grasses to improve the process. And remember: Never, ever dump leaves, grass clippings or any other debris into a stream.

Porous paving stones and driveway materials are also an integral part of a buffer zone. Instead of traditional macadam or cement  — materials that deflect water — porous materials allow runoff to soak into the ground, which aids in filtration and helps prevent runoff. To learn more, take a look at this page.

Keeping our waterways clean helps everyone. Do your part, and establish a buffer zone where you live. Mother nature will thank you.

For additional information about buffer zones and eliminating stream pollution, visit these Web pages from the DEP and EPA.

More rain barrels available – reserve yours today!

Monday, June 13th, 2011

One of our customers set up two rain barrels to fill simultaneously by linking them together.

Once again, the Authority is providing rain barrels free of charge. They are available for pick-up at our office by appointment only (no walk-ins). Although our previous rain barrel program included an entire installation kit, this time around we’re providing just the barrels. The materials to set up the system cost about $25 and are available at most hardware stores.

How to set up your rain barrel (click for a larger view).

The rain barrels are easy to link to your spouting (see the instructions at right; for a handy tip sheet, click here) and are a great way to conserve water while keeping your flowers, lawn, or vegetable garden happy. They’re also an excellent way to help maintain a buffer zone and keep runoff out of our waterways.

If you’re interested, please contact us at 610-398-1444 or via email to make an appointment or to get more information.